Category Archives: Cheap Living

Skill #1: Composting

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So, It’s January, and it finally started getting cold. I probably should have mentioned that below freezing isn’t exactly the best time to start composting, but here we are.  Composting is at the most basic level the art of making things rot in such a way that it smells as little as possible, using aerobic bacteria, beneficial microorganisms, and critters like pill bugs and worms, to make a biologically diverse, nutrient rich soil (aka humus) that is like crack for plants.picture_4_-_food_web_of_the_compost_pile

The bacteria that do most of the work like it hot and damp, and a healthy compost pile should be around 130-160F with the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge. If the temperature is too low, you might have too much carbon, and a quick fix for that is to pee on it for a few days to up the nitrogen!  This can also be affected by the amount of material you have in your pile, too much and the pile can collapse under its own weight, suffocating the aerobic bacteria that are working so hard for you. If your pile is too small, there won’t be enough material to allow it to get up to temperature and support the critters chewing it up. The universal standard is one cubic meter, or just over 3 feet cubed (trust me, it’s about ten times the amount of material you think it is). There are complex, expensive machines that are supposed to make smaller amounts work, but I’m going to need the material for my garden anyway, and I don’t want to spend $100+ on something that three recycled pallets and a pitchfork can do just as well.

The general rule of thumb is that you want a ratio of 30 carbon to 1 nitrogen for the ideal mixture to allow it to break down quickly without starting to reek.  Carbons are your “browns”, basically anything dead or woody like mulch, fallen leaves, straw, cardboard, newspaper, sawdust, etc.  Nitrogens are your “greens” like vegetable and fruit scraps, leafy plant trimmings, weeds (before they flower/seed or you will get weeds everywhere next year!!), and even coffee grounds. Animal manure, seaweed, blood(meal), and urine are among the lowest c:n ratios (most nitrogen). Here is a website with a good starting list of  c:n ratios. Too high of a carbon ratio and your compost pile will take very long to break down, but if your ratio is too low (too much nitrogen) your pile will get all slimy and stinky, which also means it’s unhealthy.  Many people say meats, dairy, and oils are forbidden in compost piles, but I think thats more for pest management than it actually doing any damage to your pile, since they all break down the same. My philosophy is, a little bit never hurt anybody, so I’m not going to worry about a little meat or dairy in my pile unless it starts to smell. If I happen to feed a few of the local critters, they’ll only turn the pile a little for me, until the Furry Tinkerer chases them off. (Side note, I know she’ll keep the garden largely pest free for me this summer, she always chases off the squirrels and already caught a rabbit in the back yard).

Composting can be very complicated if you get into higher level science, tweaking the microbiology can yield customized composts designed to benefit specific products such as strawberries or tomatoes.  But for the beginner, there are two basic approaches. The first is the ‘set it and forget it’ approach, where you gather all of your material, wet it down, mix it up, and leave it alone for a few months, checking on it occasionally to fix any problems if it starts to dry out, cool off, overheat, etc.

Not me, or my picture, but a good illustration of two stalls needed for turning compost.
Not me, or my picture, but a good illustration of two stalls needed for turning compost.

The other popular beginner method is the Berkeley Method. Here you can get a completed compost pile in 18 days, but it takes a lot of work with a pitchfork. On Day 1 you stack your pile and wet it down so it is slightly damp throughout. Then you leave it alone for the microbes to colonize the pile and start to heat it up. On the fourth day, you get your pitchfork and invert the pile, taking everything from the outer layers and put it in the middle (you will need a second compost area) and stacking the center of the old pile onto the outside of the new one. Check for moisture and water if necessary. You repeat this every other day until you hit 18 days, for a total of 8 turns, or roughly 4 hours of work. That seems like a lot of work, but you condense 6-12 months of waiting into 18 days.

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So, I’ve started collecting material for my pile, and like I said it’s a lot more than you think it would be. To get enough for more than one pile before I need it this spring, I’ve started handing out buckets at work to collect peoples’ food scraps, I hit up the local horse stable occasionally for some nice aged manure, and save all my own food scraps of course. I’m going to be contacting a local lunch shop to see if I can’t get their food scraps to kick my composting into overdrive, and I’ll have to tarp the pile to help keep it warm in this weather.

Have you ever composted before? Try it! I’ve already impressed Lady Tinkerer and my parents with how little a yard full of aged horse manure can smell, compost is nothing compared to that.

The Year in Review

So, it’s been a while, and that’s my fault. I started this site at a big transition point in my life and thought I’d be able to keep up with everything I’ve wanted to try. I spent a lot of time getting ready to move into my house and adjusting to a new job. I’ve made several batches of cider and wine, I think my strawberry wine is my biggest success so far!  I ordered five fruit trees and several more plants (I will update soon about putting plants “to bed” for the winter) and built an indoor a-frame grow stand to try my hand at growing microgreens and protect my more sensitive/younger plants that I began growing at a bad time of year.  I now can and dehydrate excess food, though I will readily admit canning is a huge pain, so I got a pressure cooker that can pressure-can and will control the temperature and pressure so I don’t have to sit in front of the stove for hours at a time! I had a worm bin that was working fairly well, until i had to leave for vacation and they all died; I will likely start a bigger one up this spring now that I will have the space with a true yard.

The last year has kept me primarily very busy with the house, I’ve installed a more efficient wood burning stove into the old fireplace, made several repairs to the house which was ruined by renters, replaced the kitchen floor, completely remodeled the bathroom, had a tree cut down from the back yard to let in some light for my future garden (and saved the entire thing for firewood and mulch) and then fenced in and cleaned up the back yard for our new rescue pup, and turned one of our spare rooms into a full on pantry with shelving and two full freezers.

This fall I got a mother-load of free mulch from a local tree trimming company and several trailer loads of horse manure from a local stable to prepare the garden for vegetables next spring. I had so much mulch I figured I may as well mulch the entire perimeter of the property and certain key areas of the front of my property to keep it clean but also establish plenty of beds to plant into. I plan to plant many varieties of productive plants into these mulch beds this spring beyond what will be going into the garden. I’m going to over plant like crazy and STUN them (Sheer, Total, Utter, Neglect); whatever survives without too much work will be used to grow stronger plants next year, and whatever dies will be sent to my new compost pile!

I make my own shampoo, clothes washing detergent, deodorant, and toothpaste,  and support a family that makes soap by hand.  For this  Christmas, me and Lady Tinker crafted homemade gift baskets for everyone, including a crocheted basket for the gifts and a soap scrub, bath bombs, homemade sugar scrub, and an amazing new comfrey-plantain healing salve which will definitely be a steady item in the Tinkerer household.

Writing this all out, it looks like I have done much more than I initially thought I did. But trust me, there is much more to come this year! Follow me on my journey, and hopefully I will inspire you to try something new that will lead you to a more self-dependent, fulfilling lifestyle.

Preparing for Winter

Winter is around the corner, and its time to prepare for the cold weather!  There are lots of ways to stay warm and reduce your heating costs at the same time using several basic principles applied in ways that have been forgotten by most people. Before the age of modern technology and electricity, people had to stay warm for thousands of years, and they took advantage of the largest source of free power and energy in the universe, the Sun. Understanding basic principles of heat transfer (convection, radiation, and conduction) can help us to more efficiently stay warm and comfortable indoors while a blizzard is raging outside.

passive solar heating diagram
passive solar heating diagram

Utilizing the sun is one of the oldest, and more reliable methods of regulating temperature. If harnessed properly, it can both keep you warm in the winter and cool in the summer.  There are different ways to take advantage of the sun, one of which would be passive solar heating/cooling. It is a design principle that keeps the house cool in the summer and hot in the winter based on the azimuth and altitude (position) of the sun throughout the year, and other design principles which you can learn about here if you wanted to get some more technical details. This is generally only applicable to people building a new house, or who have a large budget for a substantial remodel, as most modern houses are not designed or built with these concepts in mind. There are other easier and cheaper ways to get more immediate returns.

Super efficient hippy home
Super efficient hippy home, aka earthship

The first step is to SEAL THE CRACKS. You can heat your house all you want, but if your roof, walls and floors are like swiss cheese, the warm air will slip right out. You may as well pay to heat up your back yard.  To find the cracks you should perform a home energy audit, or you can pay to have a professional do it for you. That link is the best one i have found so far, it covers how to find leaks and also how to fix them. The one thing I will say is they don’t seem to mention that you should also pull off the moulding to confirm that between the window/door and the frames are insulated. You should pack it with insulation (fiberglass or spray foam are most common).  Even if there are no leaks, heat can radiate out through a gap in the wall much easier than a well insulated wall. Only after you check that all your windows and doors are properly insulated should you seal all the cracks so you don’t have to take it apart later to insulate these pockets in the wall.

Diagram of most common sources of heat loss from Airtight Energy Audits
Diagram of most common sources of heat loss from Airtight Energy Audits

After sealing the more obvious items like windows and doors, you need to get a little more creative.  You can get insulating gaskets for wall outlets and vents that aren’t used, check up around recessed lights on your top floor for proper insulation, make sure you have thick, insulated attic doors without any air leaks(see above), try to get creative to think of all the little spaces.  Go up into your attic and make sure every inch of your ceiling is covered with insulation, no gaps around ductwork, vents, chimneys, etc. A little work and some cheap insulation can make a big difference in your electric bill, both in the summer and the winter, for decades to come.  The same goes for your basement/crawl space, insulate your floor between the floor joists very well and get some caulk to seal any cracks in the foundation or between the foundation and the floor.

It is worth mentioning that the more insulation you have, the better, so you can always add more even if your house is already properly sealed. Insulation is rated by an R value, the higher the number, the better it is insulated. Homes typically have R values between 19-30, but you should strive for 30-60. The higher numbers really require thicker walls though, so you may be limited by space in pre-existing walls.

After you get your house as tight as a drum, then you can go back to making the sun work for you.  You can be as hippie green as you want to get with it. More modern, subtle improvements would be to get heavy, blackout curtains, or “energy efficient” curtains. They block out all light and keep in the heat at night when closed. You leave your curtains open during the day to gain as much natural light and heat from the sun, and close them at night after the sun goes down to keep the heat inside. You can further magnify the benefits of this by putting a clear plastic film over your windows (like this one), it will act as an extra barrier to letting heat out, and increasing radiation from the sun into your house.  Put some rugs down if you don’t already have carpet, it will help your feet feel warmer and better insulate your floors.  Winter is a good time to bake lots of cookies, the oven throws off a lot of heat, just sayin’.

Depending on how determined, or creative you are, you can also make solar heaters to put into windows, or angle reflective surfaces to bounce more sunlight into your house to gain more heat. A solar heater is something very simple to make and implement, if you live on the first floor, and don’t have a neighbor that will complain about how ugly it looks. With a little carpentry skills, for ~$100 or even less if you can recycle materials, you will have something that requires no electricity, no maintenance, has no moving parts, can’t break, and that can provide up to or in excess of 100F air flow as long as the sun is out. An even simpler solution is to just hang a black plastic bag, or a thick dark colored cloth a few inches away from the window inside, and it will absorb heat and radiate it into the room. There are plenty of other creative solutions if you care to look on google.

Just think of Pauly D's face as your window.
Just think of Pauly D’s face as your window.

Once you have maximized the efficiency of your house, and absorbed as much heat out of the sun as possible, now we look at heating efficiently.  If you go back to heat transfer, there is convection, radiation, and conduction. Convection is where you heat the air and blow the air throughout the house(central heat). This is the least efficient, as you need to expend energy to heat the air in the furnace, then expend energy to blow the air through the house, losing heat as it moves, then blow across the room, and eventually blow onto you, where you don’t even absorb all of the heat. In addition to being one of the least efficient methods of heat transfer, you waste energy heating parts of the house that you aren’t even in.  THE FIRST TIP to saving money is only heat the room you are in; heat the room that you will spend the most time in, probably the livingroom or bedroom. The next most efficient method is radiant heat, where heat radiates from the source to you. Think sitting next to a fire, or standing in a parking lot on a hot summer day; it’s so hot you can see the heat coming off the asphalt, that’s radiation.  A wood stove in a house is a good source of radiant heat.

The MOST EFFICIENT method of heating is conduction, or heating by direct contact.  This would be like sitting on a heating pad, holding a cup of coffee or hot cocoa in your hands, etc.  The one I am most interested in are rocket mass heaters, which can be as hippie or as modern as you want. It can heat a house more efficiently than a standard fireplace, and more consistently than a wood stove with as little as 1/10 the wood because it burns so hot, but the heat is absorbed by the mass, and very little heat winds up leaving the house. Since there is a mass that absorbs and slowly releases the heat, it isn’t as hot as a wood stove, and it can be molded into a bench to sit on (conductive and radiant heat).  Even though these are relatively cheap and easy to build, since they are so massive they really only apply to homeowners.  For everyone else think hot water bottles, plenty of layers of clothes, and blanket heaters. If you use a traditional heater, keep it to the one room you spend your evenings in. When you go to bed, it would be most efficient for you to use a heat blanket  with one or two quilts on top (to keep all the heat on you instead of in the room) instead of heating the entire room.

There you have it, with a little bit of work and not a lot of expense, you can save a lot of money this winter staying warm. Even if the power goes out, a little generator or battery bank can keep you more than comfortable since you have reduced the energy needs of your house.

My first project from recycled pallets!

 

 

So where I work, we typically get half a dozen pallets a week from shipments, which inevitably get thrown out. I decided this would be a good opportunity for me to try my hand at carpentry and reduce waste at the same time.

Since I live in an apartment, I am limited by space, so it had to be something relatively small. Since winter is around the corner, and I will need a place to protect my little plants as they grow into big and strong plants, i decided a few small tables for infront of the windows would be perfect.

I picked three nice pallets from work and cut two of them into thirds, so each shelf was a full pallet long, and three boards deep (roughly 12″). I then stripped down the third pallet for legs and braces. I took the outside two-thirds of each pallet so I would have a flat ‘front’, and drilled a board onto the front of each, which made it look a little nicer, and added more support to prevent the shelves from sagging.

Then I drilled two legs to one side of the ‘top’ shelf at 12″ apart (assembling the table on its side since it only had two legs at this point). I then attached the bottom shelf at an arbitrary 20″ beneath the top shelf, keeping the leg spacing at 12″ to help keep it square, thinking this would give enough space for a larger plant on the bottom but still keep it well off the ground. I then attached the third leg, and moved it onto a flat surface before attaching the fourth leg (I was working outside).  My thought was, if I attached the fourth leg on a flat surface, I could make sure the table wouldn’t rock.

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I was able to successfully make two tables with some scrap lumber, and I think it adds a nice rustic touch to the apartment . I’m thinking maybe to save it for a small stool on the balcony when I am working with my plants outside. One of the tables infront of the balcony door will work perfectly, but since the one in the den doesn’t allow any sunlight on the bottom shelf, I’ll probably just use that for storage.

Have you ever considered recycling pallets? They are basically free wood! What have you tried to make recycling pallets?